I worked in a lab in the UK where most of us were Research Associates doing PhDs paid for by EU Esprit research projects - we got a decent salary and although the main focus of the work was obviously on what was required for the project the Prof that ran the place made sure that work was aligned with each persons PhD research - he also had a slush fund that was used to pay salaries while people were writing their thesis, defending it and finding a new job.

We also got to do regular travel in Europe - we went to Paris, Milan, Copenhagen, Bilbao, San Sabastian regularly - it was hell :-)